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starting at the mouthpiece and heading south. Torch (or use tea light, when I use a tea light, I set it on the edge of a table so I can tilt the bubble downwards as opposed to holding it horizontally). Hold it by the bubble with the stem pointing straight up in the air or tilted just a little bit.Ģ. It won't warp the bejesus out of your pickle. So if you have a thin glass bowl, just use the candle method. I won't use a torch on a thin pipe because it warps the hell out of the bowl and becomes immediate trash. (I was hesitant to buy one, and I found a nice one for $15 and it is the best thing since Wonder bread.) If you don't have a torch, I use tea lights (little candles.) Lighters always burn the hell out of my thumbs and I get sick of buying so many of them.
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If you have a nice & thick glass pickle, I would use a mini torch to burn the stem down. Again, it's easier to do it right the first time than to have to troubleshoot a piece has cured.After many trials and tribulations, I have found that melting the stem down into the bowl works the best. Always apply a generous amount of resin to the entire surface of your piece.Use our Resin Calculator to determine how much you're likely to need, then add a bit more. It's easy to find extra things to resin if you have a little left over, but not easy to mix up more if you need it considering the cure times will be different. Always mix a little more than you think you'll need to avoid running out.Use small pieces of scrap paper to even out either side to ensure levelness. Level from left to right, and top to bottom. Take the time to level your piece prior to resining.It will look a mess until you pour the second layer, and then it'll look great! Obviously you need to wait until the first layer is 100% cured before adding more resin on top.ĪrtResin is naturally self-leveling, so this problem happens when your work is not level or you have not used enough resin. The sanding provides some tooth on the first coat so the second layer will adhere properly. Lightly sand the entire piece and repour a second layer of resin on top.Prepare whatever you plan to cover with in advance so you can simply grab it and use it as soon as you're done resining. Cover your work with a half cardboard box, or build a tent if your piece is very large.Resin in a well ventilated, designated resin area where your work can sit undisturbed while curing.If you are experiencing imperfections that look more like domed bumps in the resin, skip down to #4. This problem can be caused by anything floating/falling into your resin while it cures, resulting in imperfections in the surface. For larger pieces, a propane torch can't be beat! I have found a small butane torch effective for most pieces - it's easy to hold and manoeuvre, not cumbersome, and does a really good job at taking care of every last bubble. Applying heat from these tools by quickly running them over the surface of the resin will efficiently rid the resin of bubbles. In this instance, use a butane or propane torch. Blowing on bubbles will cause them to pop, but this method is not realistic if you are coating a large piece.If you're resining over porous substrates such as wood or paper, sealing first is a good idea. Pour resin over non-porous substrates to avoid trapped air from being released into the resin.You should be able to see the bubbles disappear just by gently blowing on them. A bubble release agent allows for easy de-gassing so you don't have to really work at getting to bubbles to pop. Make sure to use a quality resin product that contains a bubble release agent, such as ArtResin.This an inevitable problem that is easily solved.
CAN YOU SHOOT CRACK RESIN PATCH
It will look a mess until you pour the second layer, and then it'll look great! Obviously you need to wait until the first layer and patch are 100% cured before adding more resin on top. The sanding provides some tooth to the first coat so the second layer will adhere properly.
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Scrape off any sticky material as best as you can and discard.